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Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Recently I traveled on vacation to Turkey for the first time. Wow, the picturesque country exceeded all my expectations. Istanbul is a modern, hip metropolis with amazing ancient history. The beach resort towns are beautiful with friendly people. And the foods certainly did NOT disappoint.

There were so many highlights, but one that I really appreciated was Ayasofya. Usually, I’m much more about immersing myself into a local culture than visiting tourist sites. Nonetheless, the story of Ayasofya mesmerized me so much with its tales of the many criticalImage moments between Christian and Muslim history that still remain relevant today. I sat in the ancient building thinking about the tremendous effort to build such a structure with just manual labor. Twenty percent of the workers (2,000) died building the church/temple. I considered how Ayasofya changed hands between empires and religions. I thought about how fluid the changes were in its 2,000-year history — and how we aren’t really all that different from each other.

It truly is a country where East meets West, and the modern juxtaposes the ancient.

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I first caught the bug for traveling when I spent a year in Seoul right after college to rediscover my roots. Spending extended time in such a different urban setting was exhilarating, liberating and stimulating. Every day was a new adventure.

Prior to that I’d spent most of my life in the southern suburbs of Seattle playing basketball in gyms or hanging out at local malls.

I’ve now lived on three continents and visited many different cities. My career has allowed me to be mobile and given me a lot of opportunities to travel. While traveling can be tiring, it is still something I really enjoy. Reflecting back, I’ve enjoyed almost every place I’ve ever visited. Every city offers something unique and interesting.

When on the road I always try to spend some time in local places. Once when young working for a global agency I was in Jakarta and left my “Western” hotel for a weekend to live in a local lodging place with shared bathrooms. While on an extended trip to Paris, I volunteered to entertain a man in a nursing home so I could be with locals. Even in Butte, Montana I spent Saint Paddy’s day drinking with the locals until I passed out.

Life is like traveling. You can choose to get involved and seek out different experiences, or retreat back to what is familiar.

I’m one who encourages you to do the former.

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One way to understand the level of development of an economy is by the availability of paper napkins and/or tissues in local restaurants.

When I had lived in Seoul in the late 1980′s, it was really difficult to get decent-sized paper napkins at local restaurants. If lucky, you would be given a small single-ply piece. Please understand that Korean food can be very messy to eat with the red sauces. I remember my American female  friends treating soft tissue from the states like they were strips of gold. Now, napkins and tissues are relatively abundant in Korea.

Even in the UK back in the 1990′s, I remember my wife complaining about the lack of quality paper napkins at some restaurants. Things have improved a lot since then. Of course, at nice restaurants you  would get the cloth napkins there.

Now, as I visit Vietnam frequently, I’m usually in search of bigger-sized paper napkins (unless at Western style restaurants). What Vietnam restaurants do, however, is provide pre-packaged wet towels. This is very convenient given the tropical weather. These are placed in front of you but if you use them, you are charged extra for them. So, technically there still aren’t good free paper napkins.

Of course, this is all from an American perspective, where we consume an embarrassingly disproportional percentage of the world’s natural resources. Go to any fast food restaurant and watch people grab handfuls from the unlimited supply of napkins, much of which is never used before being thrown away.

I once heard a story while in Korea about a man who would use a paper napkin and then put it back into his pocket. This was truly a frugal man who would re-use his napkin again.

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Packing Again

It’s time to pack again. At least I can take a small suitcase since I’m headed to tropical weather in Saigon.

Today is my younger son’s 21st birthday, but we celebrated last night with the extended family by grilling filet mignons and lobsters. He’s got big plans to spend a few nights at the Tulalip Casino Resort. He’s also volunteered to drive me to the airport today.

My wife is already on her way to the Oregon coast with her girlfriends. I had to carry a heavy load of wine bottles to the car for her this morning. Later this week, she is going to Los Angeles for a political conference for Korean-Americans.

My older son, who is also 21 for another month, is out buying riding gear because he just bought an enduro motorcycle. I went with him yesterday to negotiate a better deal, but only got an extra $200 off. I’m pathetic. I guess an enduro is a lot better than the crouch rocket we used to have.

My brother just got back from a trip to Australia and Vietnam. We got to see each other a couple of days and now I’m heading out. My father is in Seoul visiting.

Such is life in today’s world.

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Chocolate rice cake offers a "stickier" texture, part of the new fusion wave in Korean foods.

Just concluded a week-long visit to Seoul, Korea. Certainly, a lot has changed since I lived here 20 years ago. The country has become truly an affluent, developed nation. People seem a bit more relaxed, courteous, without the constant chip on the shoulder like before.

The things that impressed me the most were:

  • Food. Affluence brings lots of experimentations with the local cuisine, and on the most part, the food is excellent. Modern Korean food is more diverse, healthier and just plain fantastic.
  • Infrastructure. Yes, the US is the biggest economy in the world, but it is also hampered by its shere size. The infrastructure in Seoul is generally superior with its modern subway systems, high-speed trains and better-engineered roads.
  • The New Hip. I’ve heard Tokyo and Seoul were blazing fashion trends with more bold concepts than from Paris, New York and Milan. I didn’t believe it until revisiting. Lots of European concepts with Asian twists make for a serious fashion scene. Also, the Korean pop culture is dominating Asia, and moving into Latin America.
  • New Technologies. Whether gaming, social media or mobile concepts, Korea is right there in innovations. I expect more innovations to come from Korea in coming years.
  • Opportunistic. Koreans are have the largest foreign communities in Indonesia and Vietnam. They are the largest group of foreign students in China. They are gaining influence in future economic powers.

A few negative things:

  • Pollution. I was in Seoul during the Yellow Dust Season (Chinese pollution clouds moving in). It was absolutely horrible.
  • Lack of Diversity. Yes, I know more foreigners are embedded into the local culture (apparently there are 1 million of them living here). It certainly is more diverse than when I had lived there. Still, the country is still pretty homogeneous, which doesn’t work well for someone like myself.
  • Height. I didn’t like so many of the young women being taller than me. It’s an ego thing.

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Rick taught me to drink traditional rice liquor, makuli

Twenty-six years ago (1985), I showed up in Seoul as a naive Korean-American student looking to find my roots. The problem was that I had very little Korean language skills and even less cultural perspective.

At the time, a 6′ 4″ bald white man befriended me and took me under his wing. No one stuck out more than he did in a sea of short, black-haired Koreans back then. The country was just starting to become an economic “tiger” and the government was not yet even a democracy.

However, as a former US military intelligence personnel, Rick spoke fluent Korean and had immersed himself completely into the local culture. My ”hyung” (big brother) taught me to be Korean again. He would forced me to eat Korean delicacies that I initially resisted. He would teach me how to drink in the traditional Korean custom and how to honor my elders.

We were quite the pair back then, when people would just gawk at him and ask me about my “giant” friend. He would always then answer for me, which at times would send people running away from us.

When I returned to the states, he too returned and trained to be an officer at Fort Lewis, a military base south of Seattle. Since he had no family there, I had the honor of pinning his officer pin on him during his ceremony. 

Later, when I was getting married, he was the MC at our reception, delighting our families with his Korean jokes.

Today, we’re getting together again as I’m visiting Seoul on vacation. His heart always tugged him back to here, where he’s now married with two beautiful daughters. Last time we got together, it was the day before my flight back home. The facts are still a bit fuzzy but I almost missed that flight when I finally found my way home the next afternoon. This time, my wife has insisted that I meet him days prior to my return flight.

In life, a friend like Rick is rare. Who would have thought a farm boy from Iowa and a Korean-American boy from Seattle would affect each other’s lives in so many unlikely ways? I’m so thankful for having him as a friend.

Now, I got to come up with a strategy to pay for our night out as we will be fighting for each bill — just as he had taught me to do a long time ago.

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As a frequent international traveler, it’s important to overcome jetlag quickly at my destinations to maximize productivity during these visits. That’s easier said than done, especially as I get older.

Recently, a colleague at Alterian told me about a BBC special that explained how our human brains have a second “feeding clock”  that can override our “master clock” when food is scarce. This is to keep us alert until we find food as part of our survival makeup. In theory, then, avoiding food for long periods of time (ususally 12-16 hours) can reset our “feeding clock” while our biological clock can only adjust a little each day. By not eating on long flights, therefore, you should be able to adjust to new time zones (resetting the feeding clock) more quickly.

I’ve tried fasting on my last trip from London to San Francisco and on my current trip from Seattle to Ho Chi Minh City.  

From London, I was on Air France, which meant I flew to Paris first, then connected on a non-stop flight to San Francisco at 10. On the 11-hour flight to San Francisco from Charles De Gaulle Airport, I refused food which concerned the French flight attendants who promised to save a meal for me in case I changed my mind. Upon landing, I was plenty hungry and gorged on sushi. I was meeting my wife to celebrate our anniversary so I especially didn’t want jetlag to show me down. That first night, I slept almost six hours straight (pretty good). For the next few days, I did get tired late afternoon when it was night time back in London. However, I made sure to keep eating at the appropriate meal hours and I never hit that proverbial jetlag “wall”.

Last week, I took a 12-hour flight from Seattle to Taipei, then a three-hour flight to my final destination Ho Chi Minh City. On the long first lag, I again refused food. It wasn’t too difficult since that flight left at 2am Seattle time. I slept for eight hours straight. I ate upon arriving in Taipei.

I got into HCMC around noon and made it to the office for a 3 pm team meeting. I was alert and engaged until around 7pm when I did hit a wall. I passed on an Oktoberfest event, headed straight to the condo, made sure to pick up take out food and crashed right after eating. I woke up at 3 am and struggled to sleep the rest of the night. Adjusting in HCMC, which is 14 hours ahead of Seattle proved to be a little more difficult.  By the third day, I started feeling pretty alert for most of the day to early evening.

I believe that the strategy of fasting on these long flights do help in adjusting to new time zones. However, your body still has a biological clock that just needs time to adjust, so there is no magic method that can help completely avoid some form of jetlag. I recommend people trying fasting on long flights (up to 12-16 hours if possible). If nothing else, it helps you realize how much you are over-feed on an international flight.

One caveat is that it is always harder to adjust to a new time zone flying east than flying west. Both these examples are of flying west, so I may have further input after flying home east.

Good luck.

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So concludes another trip to Vietnam.

It was cooler than my last visit in Spring. It’s rainy season and the overcast skies provided some relief from the sun, and the occasional down pours cooled the city.

The Intrepid research center moved during my trip. While the start-up office, two rooms in a large house, was adequate for the first year, we needed to create a better working environment for our growing team. The new location is a nice commercial office building in District 4.

Everyone enthusiastically helped in moving the equipment. There were a lot of excitement in claiming personal work areas in the new bright and open environment. Well deserved. After all, this group of analysts are a large part of our recent success.

I also had a couple of American visitors on this trip. Showing them around and seeing their reactions to the unique elements of Vietnam reminded me about my first trips here: The shock of seeing the scooter traffic for the first time; the hesitation on the first few attempts at crossing the street;  the utter delight when sampling the wonderful local cuisine; feeling the vibrance of a developing economy; the pleasure of that first hair and face washing at the salons.

I realized that I have learned a lot about Vietnam since first coming here to start the research center about a year ago. I was able to answer most of their questions. I even taught them a few Vietnamese words, or at least my version of those words. We made a lot of the locals smile with our attempts.

I also have a great network of friends here who fill any open time with meals, drinking and even dancing at times. Again, they kept me out pretty late last night and I only got  to the airport less than hour before my flight.

Just another typical Vietnam trip. I leave now with manicured nails, a bit of a hangover, and the knowledge that as the company continues to grow, there will be many other trips in my future.

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It was by sheer chance. A business colleague and I were discussing a possible channel partnership agreement while having drinks at a Jazz club in West London. When it was my turn to refresh our drinks, I bumped into a friendly Ethiopian lady visiting family from Singapore. Both my business colleague and I knew a little bit about Ethiopian food, which seemed to flatter her. She appreciated that we knew anything about her culture.

Notice chili in the corner. Hot.

That was a couple of nights ago. Tonight, Ed Kim, who runs Intrepid’s Vietnam practice and happen to be visiting the London office; Don Miller, a friend from Seattle who has been working in London since February; and I just finished an amazing Ethiopian dinner. This kind lady, her beautiful 8-year-old daughter, along with her London friend took us to a bustling restaurant in Shepherd Bush.

While we all had experienced Ethiopian food before, our hostess ordered dishes unfamiliar to us. The raw meats with diced tomatoes was something new for me and fantastic. The chili pepper stuffed with onions and tomatoes was extremely spicy, stopping me right after one bite.

During the evening, we were also taught several things about eating Ethiopian food, such as the proper way  to unroll the injera bread. The young daughter mocked us for pinching our food up with just three fingers rather than the “four-finger” scoop.

For entertainment, the adorable daughter whose father is Swedish, made all of us laugh, usually at my expense, which delighted Don and Ed a little too much.

“You don’t look like a person who knows a lot about facebook,” she stated after asking what we do. Ed asked, “Why? Because he looks so old?” “Yes,” she replied, “He looks 99 years old.”

I watched Ed and Don laugh throughout the night. Being on the road does have its rewards at times, but most of it is a grind of working long hours and eating restaurant foods alone. By the end of the evening, this lady and her friend said that after just one meal together, it seems as we’ve been friends for years. They promised the next Ethiopian meal will be home cooked. They were so warm toward us.

Most opportunities in life are given to those who are looking for something different, and to those who open themselves up for new experiences. Usually that means being open to other people, especially to those who are different from us. In this situation, I’m glad we met people who had such a mindset when they met us.

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Don Miller, my friend, was happy to walk Paris with me

Traveling with me can be a pain or quite adventurous, depending on your perspective.

Generally, I like riding local public transportation, especially the subways. I also like to walk. I only ride taxi’s out of necessity. Why would I want to be in a car with just the driver when there’s a whole new environment to observe?

Last weekend, I visited Paris with a friend. We traveled mostly by the Metro and by foot.

On the Metro, I can observe the locals in their environment. I get a sense of the fashion. You can observe how couples express intimacy. I can see the protocal between the old and the young. You can observe the general reaction to panhandlers.

By foot, you get a good sense of the “energy” of a place. You smell different odors, hear new sounds, and see new surroundings. Even crossing the street can be a unique experience depending on where you are. In Ho Chi Minh, crossing a street full of scooters can scar you for life. In Seattle, police give tickets for jaywalking.  In London, the cross walks warn you on which direction to look before crossing.

My approach allows me to find subtlties that I wouldn’t otherwise. It allows me to fit in slightly more. I leave a new place with a better understanding of its culture than just what its tourist attractions represent.

Such effort to immerse oneself in a culture to observe is called ethnography, an anthropological term. For me, I figured ethnography would be a good hobby, until I got into the business of analyzing social media data. What better environment to observe behavior in people’s natural environment than in social media platforms? This is called Virtual Ethnography.

As for my travel habits, however, it turns out that I’m not an ethnographer after all. I’m a big fake. That’s because I participate as well as observe. While I love watching people, I also love talking and interacting with them as well. So, when I walk, I tend to talk to street vendors and anyone else who are willing to talk to me. On the Metro, I love trying to make strangers smile, or sometimes helping an old lady with her bags.

So now you are forewarned: Travel with me at your own risk.

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